My Canopy- Help Needed

[sj022698]

What does everyone think about this. It will be 12' L x 10' Deep

It will be about 9' in the front and 11' in the back. The joist's (shown in blue) will go all the way across- front to back as well as the 2x4's for the roof.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j276/sj022698/Shed3.jpg

Would really dig some thoughts. Also, I sent Zilla a couple more questions but know he's having some computer issues. Maybe someone can help. Here is his link to his Q-Bana and below are the questions I have about it.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/photozilla/main/my_new_album

#1-Going from left to right on the 6x6's, those are just "joist" boards, correct? Aren't they something like 2x6?

#2- The boards going from front to back on the frame, what size are those?

#3- Since I'm simply doing a roof going one way and not like yours (low in the front, high in the back) couldn't I simply use taller 6x6's in the back and run a board between the back two? Rather than adding on to the 6x6's in the back to make higher? Say, 10' ones in the front and 12' or 14' in the back?

#4- The boards supporting the roof look like 2x4's. Is that correct? Also, there is 2 things I'm confused about. Are they cut at an angle where they meet at the top? Secondly, it looks like you cut out grooves that they fit in at the bottom??? How do you do that and is it nesc.?

#5- How much of an angle should the roof be at? I'm guess thas it what I'd want to cut the 2x4's at???

Thanks!

[FAT DADDY'S]

#1 you do not need joist boards the way you are doing the roof, waste of money.

#2 ?????

#3 You can just use taller post in the back.

#4 If you are just building a slant roof you do not need the support board.

#5 Roof just needs to be at enough angle for water run off. No need to cut end of boards. And I would use 2x6 for the rafters due to your span.

[Papa Tom]

I tend to agree with FD but I don't understand low in front high in back do you want the rain water to drain off on you as you enter or leave? I would put horizontal joist type 2x6 boards one one each end to triangulate for stability. Also a corbel on each end of the high side.

[FAT DADDY'S]

I also agree with Papa, but if you do want a slant roof, make it high in front low in back, and make sure you put at least a foot over hang on it to keep from water running in.

[wood_is_good]

You are in MO correct ? So it's not unheard of to have snow. You need to account for that load. Also if you are in an area prone to high winds or gusts, additional bracing may need to be installed. My point is there are other variables to consider before you go off building something that you want to last.

[cappy]

Regarding the slant (front or back) he may have been considering which way the smoke will come out.

I figure though that as long as the roof is high enough I would still have it angled down in the back and let the smoke find its way out the side and front. Shouldn't be much smoke anyway normally.

[david brace]

I think that you're inviting a WHOLE LOT of trouble by pitching the roof TOWARDS the house. With rain and snow load and water seepage, there'd be NO WAY that I would do that. You would have to flash the siding of your house to make sure the water wouldn't creep under the siding. NO WAY...

If the smoke is gonna find it's way to the highest point, then let that point be at the back of the structure. If you're THAT mindful about smoke buildup in the structure, then maybe a fan in the upper corner to blow the smoke outta there.

Andway, the kinda smoke you'll have from your pit shouldn't be the locomotive style anyway...

DB

[droller]

Two observations. First, I agree with DB if you plan to attach it to your house. But, that is not clear to me. Second, you will have to determine the pitch of your roof. A rise of 3" or 4" per foot is probably what Zilla did. If you go with 4" over a distance of 10' feet, 10 1/2" (your 10 feet plus the thickness of the posts) your total rise will be @41" (31" if you have a pitch of 3" per foot). Your front posts are way too short to accomodate even a 3" rise.

Lastly, I would worry about the way the 2x12's are attached to the posts. That appears to be a plywood gusset bolted to the posts and the 2x12. I would suggest that you notch the posts to accept the 2x12s and then put bolts through both.

[sj022698]

Thanks everyone!!!

I'm working on a revamped design based on suggestions made by everyone. Thanks again!

[sj022698]

Here is a revised one. What do you think? It will have about a 3' pitch. It will be high in the front going away from the deck. It is not either way going towards the house as this sits parralel to the house. I've switch to 6x6's and removed the joists. I will be using either 2x8's or 2x10's for the roof and will use joist hangers. It will be covered with plywood and shingled. Thoughts? Thanks again for the help!

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j276/sj022698/Canopy5.jpg

[Papa Tom]

Drop the 2x12s down to be top flush with uprights and bolt to the uprights. Place a 2x8 from the top of the back upright horizontally to the front upright on each end. Place a corbel on the front side on each end from the upright to the 2x12 (actually I'd do this on the back as well). These changes will help the stability especially under load.
Joist hangers won't work for rafters but there is probably a bracket that will or you can "birds mouth" them to each 2x12.

[droller]

"Drop the 2x12s down to be top flush with uprights and bolt to the uprights."

I suggested notching the uprights to accept the 2x12 because it would give a full 5 1/2" of load bearing surface at each end. Just bolting the 2x12s to the posts puts all the weight of the roof on the bolts, IMO.

Wish I could draw it out.

[sj022698]

Well, I'd like to thank everyone for their help! However, just got back from city hall. I won't be able to put this where I need it unless I attach it to the house. But, good news, I spoke with Tom from Lone Star to find out the top of my pit. Only 6' 4" to the top of the stacks. So, I can comfortably do a canopy outside and not have to sweat :lol:

Thanks again!

[Papa Tom]

"Drop the 2x12s down to be top flush with uprights and bolt to the uprights."

I suggested notching the uprights to accept the 2x12 because it would give a full 5 1/2" of load bearing surface at each end. Just bolting the 2x12s to the posts puts all the weight of the roof on the bolts, IMO.

Wish I could draw it out.

I agree that notching is better but still do so that the tops are flush.

[droller]

I agree that notching is better but still do so that the tops are flush.

Yep. That way he would get full benefit of the load bearing, and the 2x12 would be braced from the back. Makes for very stiff framing.